Should I Leave Carbon Filter On 24 Hours
- Aquarium Forum
- Freshwater Aquarium Fish Forum
- Freshwater Tank Equipment
- Aquarium Filter
You should upgrade or use an culling browser.
How long is it condom to go westward/out a carbon insert in the tank filter?
Rikard
- #ane
Oh, just to be articulate, if there's fifty-fifty a single spot on 1 fish does it accept to exist ich, or could that be natural?
Dlondon95
- #2
kinezumi89
- #iii
Rikard
- Thread Starter
- #4
kinezumi89
- #5
Do you always examination your water? These results should emphasize this fact, if y'all examination before and afterward you replace the media.
As well, compounds that remove ammonia are non necessary. Once your tank is cycled, the bacteria eat the ammonia produced by the fish waste matter. If you remove the ammonia, then the bacteria has nothing to swallow!
Hope this helps a chip. You may wish to read the stickies on cycling an aquarium, since it sounds similar yours may non be cycled, if you supercede the filter media monthly.
Junne
- #6
I concur about the companies who tell you lot replace the filter media every 3 months. Bad advice! They are also the same people who say to but add water and fish with declorinator and that's it! I learned so much past people who are experienced in fishkeeping ( here on this forum and online elsewhere )
Its best to larn from people who are experienced at this
Rikard
- Thread Starter
- #seven
And if the tank is going to cycle once again w/ fish in information technology, is in that location anything I should practise to go far easier on them? i.e. compounds that remove amonia.
Tigress Hill
- #eight
Rikard
- Thread Starter
- #9
kinezumi89
- #x
No need to remove the filter. Then you won't take any bacteria to consume the ammonia! How y'all're treating for ich is a factor, though. If y'all're treating the natural way, by increasing the temperature (which is always recommended first) and then y'all'll be fine. If you're treating with meds, and the filter and carbon are new, then y'all will need to remove the carbon Merely simply the filter media stays. The filter media stays forever! If it gets a little clogged up, take a bucket of water out of the tank and classy the filter around in there a chip to remove the gunk, and then back in the filter housing it goes. You mustn't rinse with tapwater, every bit the chlorine will kill the bacteria.
If yous're unfamiliar with the natural method of curing ich, hither is a great thread that describes it: https://www.fishlore.com/aquariumfishforum/threads/curing-ich-naturally.105665/
Edit: Yeah, definitely choice up a bottle correct away! The full name is "Seachem Prime number;" yous can get it at Petsmart and Petco. And put that media dorsum in! (Without the carbon, of course. The ich meds would take directed to remove the carbon, because it will remove the medication from the water, but the textile-y role of the media stays, forever and always!) The bacteria is of course expressionless, since the filter has stale out, but it volition get to growing once more at least.
My suggestions
one. Purchase a bottle of Seachem Prime and dose for the full amount for your tank volume daily, until y'all reach step 3.
2. Purchase a liquid test kit (if you don't already take one) such every bit the API freshwater master examination kit. This is imperative in determining if your tank is cycled. If you lot aren't familiar with the nitrogen cycle, click on the underlined text and read upwardly on it. In a nutshell, your fish produce waste, which decays and produces ammonia. Ammonia is toxic to fish, simply bacteria abound on surfaces and in your filter media that eat ammonia and produce nitrite. Nitrite is likewise poisonous, just other bacteria consume nitrite and produce nitrate. Nitrate is just toxic in loftier quantities, and so we do frequent (weekly) water changes to keep the levels beneath 20ppm. Your tank will be cycled when ammonia and nitrite are 0ppm (because the bacteria consumes information technology as presently as it is produced) and y'all accept measurable nitrates. This is why a examination kit is so important!
three. Buy a bottle of Tetra SafeStart. This is a bottle of the beneficial bacteria that abound in your filter media. Read upward on this thread first: https://www.fishlore.com/aquariumfishforum/threads/q-a-with-tetra-about-tetra-safestart.58116/ In a nutshell, here's what yous do:
A. Test your water and make certain the ammonia is beneath 1.0ppm. If non, do a water change using Tetra AquaSafe equally your water conditioner. Other conditioners may cause TSS (Tetra SafeStart) to neglect, so discontinue using Prime number for the fourth dimension being. (Don't worry, you'll get more utilise out of it in the future, then your money is not lost. )
B. Dump in the bottle of TSS.
C. For 2 weeks..nix! Feed your fish of course, but NO testing the water and NO water changes for the two total weeks. Once the two weeks are upwardly, examination your water and if your results are 0ppm ammonia and nitrite and you accept measurable nitrate, then your tank is cycled! Rejoice!
Now that your tank is cycled: NEVER throw your media away! Don't heed to the instructions on the package, they but want your money. If your media is getting really old and is literally falling apart, here's what you do: Purchase a new filter cartridge. If there is room, stick it in the filter housing with the new one. This may require removing the plastic frame inside the old cartridge, but that's okay, the new cartridge will concord information technology upright. Wait at to the lowest degree ii weeks (but more is ameliorate) for the bacteria to commencement growing on the new cartridge. THEN y'all can throw the former, fally-aparty ane abroad. This style, you always take bacteria in your tank to process your fish'southward waste.
Almost the ich again, I recommend treating your fish the natural way, past simply raising the temperature, for multiple reasons:
1. As your tank is not cycled, you should do frequent water changes anyway to go on the ammonia/nitrite levels low plenty to exist safe for your fish. (Really, but 0ppm is safe, but before you use TSS you would be dosing with Prime, which will neutralize lower levels.) As part of this natural method, you vacuum the gravel every other day or then, then you kill two birds with one stone - removing the ich cysts that have fallen off the fish and landed in the gravel, and keeping the water nice and clean for your fish!
2. As your fish have been subjected to a cycling tank (which is stressful) their immune systems accept been compromised - this is very likely why they became infested with ich in the first place. Perhaps y'all bought a fish that had ich and put information technology in the tank; only a salubrious fish with a robust immune arrangement would not have succumbed to the mucus. SO since your fish's immune systems are suppressed, it's a skilful idea to practise as gentle a treatment as possible, if that makes sense. Rather than introducing harsh medicines into the tank, I think information technology would exist improve to only make the tank nice and toasty for a few weeks, and keep the water pristine.
Sorry for the lengthy post, but I hope this clears some things upwards!
Tigress Hill
- #11
rivulsevplec
- #12
Rikard
- Thread Starter
- #13
So if I remove the carbon from the new filter media I just added yesterday & add the safe start (so long as the ammonia checks out), could I keep treating the fish w/ the malachite green? B/c that requires 50% h2o changes after each use. Or, should I concord off on the safe outset until after the treatment, wouldn't the required 50% h2o changes keep ammonia etc. low anyway?
kinezumi89
- #14
Before nosotros become any further: What size tank do yous have, and what fish? There may be other issues at mitt as well an uncycled tank.
Cichlidnut
- #15
I don't use carbon in any of my tanks. It is not necessary.
I am very against using malachite light-green. It is harmful to fish. Information technology is illegal to use malachite dark-green in fish intended for food. Malachite green can event fish on a genetic level and has an accumulative outcome. Afterward treating, it volition persist in your fish for quite some time.
Heat is the easiest and best way of getting rid of ich. Ich really is pretty easy to cure.
Here's a nice article about curing ICH.
Rikard
- Thread Starter
- #16
Just to head this off b/c I know what'due south coming.... I know I don't take enough of either tetra, but I was actually just trying to add together some neons & the guy at the fish shop said theirs were beingness treated for ich ironically enough, but the glowlights would schoolhouse due west/ them so I could take a mixed grouping. I'chiliad pretty sure they brought the ich w/ them. Also, I know the loach needs a lot of oxygen, that'due south why I added the alive plants & airstone. He's actually doing fine, he hangs out on the underside of a apartment stone I made an arch w/ during the mean solar day, & scoots effectually all over the drinking glass when I turn the calorie-free off. At i indicate he had a spot or 2 on him & he was spending time by the filter outlet (I'm assuming b/c of more oxygen virtually there), only during the treatment his spots cleared up & he returned to his rock at the lesser of the tank. I'chiliad guessing he'due south fine now & actually the glowlights expect fine also, hence why I put in the new filter media. Then I noticed that ane-2 of the neons (who've been there for a while) appeared to have a spot on 1 of their fins. None of the fish are acting lethargic or eating any less, seems like information technology'due south pretty minor at the moment. But I wasn't certain if there'd be adverse affects from continuing ich meds or if at that place was anything else I could practice.
So, I did not read any of the stuff higher up, wayyy too long lol.I don't utilise carbon in any of my tanks. It is not necessary.
I am very against using malachite dark-green. It is harmful to fish. It is illegal to use malachite light-green in fish intended for food. Malachite green can effect fish on a genetic level and has an accumulative result. Later treating, it will persist in your fish for quite some fourth dimension.
Heat is the easiest and best mode of getting rid of ich. Ich really is pretty easy to cure.
Here'southward a nice article about curing ICH.
Am I not seeing the link, or......?
Cichlidnut
Rikard
- Thread Starter
- #18
cognizant
- #19
Also, I have had a lot of luck treating Ich with Microbe-Lift Herbtana. Information technology isn't a medicine to kill the Ich but rather rebuild the slime coat on the fish so that the Ich tin't reattach itself and eventually starve to death. Also, it was the only time I used a treatment and didn't lose my wheel.
kinezumi89
- #20
Is it feasible to set a quarantine tank? This mode yous could either motility the affected fish and treat them at that place, or move the loach temporarily and treat the master tank. Unfortunately the tank wouldn't be cycled, so if y'all moved the sick fish, you'd have to either way for new filter media to seed in your current tank (put new media in with the old stuff, wait for leaner to grow on it, takes a few weeks...I think I may have explained it above, I forget) or you lot'd have to use TSS and expect the two weeks. You could motility the loach and practise TSS on the tank, and so when treating the primary tank was done you could move him and the cycled media dorsum, so the media wouldn't go to waste. But I'm not sure what the smallest adequate tank size is, so that might not be a feasible option either.
Another choice of class would be upgrading and getting a larger tank. (I'm only full of expensive ideas, I know.) If you lot got a new tank that was large enough to house the loach, that could be his new permanent home. Put TSS is, maybe a few new fish yous'd like to permanently keep, and then y'all could treat the tank you accept now using the heat method.
If more tanks are not possible, either financially or space-wise, you could endeavour other medicines that are thought to be more safe than malachite light-green. (I've never used it, and so I wasn't aware of possible issues.) Mardel makes a production called Maroxy which treats fungal infections (which ich is); you could try looking into that as well.
I wanted to add together that I saw some other member mentioning treating ich in a goldfish tank. She said that she raised the temperature to 88 for ii weeks with no ill effects to her fish. Maybe this ways y'all could do the rut treatment, fifty-fifty with your loach in the tank?
Cichlidnut
Rikard
- Thread Starter
- #22
kinezumi89
- #23
Rikard
- Thread Starter
- #24
Oh, in case anyone was curious, the loach is named Scooter b/c of the way he moves. Information technology's really pretty funny the manner he just scoots effectually the tank glass & then nigh glides/hovers from 1 side to the other occasionally. Especially when he hits the bubbling from the air rock & he gets lifted like a hang glider in an updraft.
But curious, w/out any filter media at that place's been a lot more green algae growth, does that indicate there's even so some beneficial bacteria/micro organisms in the tank or are they unrelated?
kinezumi89
- #25
But to clarify, you don't Have to add Tetra Aquasafe when using TSS, merely if you do a h2o change before calculation TSS, then Aquasafe is the conditioner y'all must use. (If this makes sense.)
About the algae, my guess is that it is considering of decreased nitrates in your tank. You removed the filter cartridge which contained the bacteria that consumed ammonia and produced nitrates. Because you have less bacteria, you volition have less nitrates. I currently have a scrap of an algae problem in my 55 gallon tank because there are a lot of plants and not a lot of fish, and so until I started dosing dry fertilizers, there was usually 0ppm nitrates in the tank. Maybe you're now having a similar problem. If it goes away in one case your tank is back to being cycled, and then that might be the issue.
cognizant
- #26
If more than tanks are non possible, either financially or space-wise, you lot could effort other medicines that are thought to be more than safe than malachite dark-green. (I've never used information technology, so I wasn't aware of possible issues.) Mardel makes a product chosen Maroxy which treats fungal infections (which ich is); y'all could endeavour looking into that as well.
Ich isn't fungal, it'southward parasitic.
My proposition is to utilise:
Microbe-Elevator Herbtana + Microbe-Lift Special Blend + Microbe Lift Night Out Two
Herbtana will starve out the parasite, Special Blend will kickstart a new wheel, and Nighttime Out Ii will neutralize the Nitrites and Ammonia. They can all exist used together, won't ruin a cycle, and work really well.
I take used the 3 together before, and my fish were without Ich in 2 days (I connected using information technology for the entire treatment), I never lost my bike, lost no fish, and my Skunk Loach wasn't afflicted in any negative means.
The three are made to exist used together for the whole purpose of removing the Ich, keeping the bicycle, and not harming any fish.
kinezumi89
- #27
Ich isn't fungal, information technology's parasitic.My proffer is to employ:
Microbe-Elevator Herbtana + Microbe-Lift Special Alloy + Microbe Elevator Night Out Two
Herbtana will starve out the parasite, Special Alloy volition kickstart a new cycle, and Night Out II volition neutralize the Nitrites and Ammonia. They can all be used together, won't ruin a bike, and piece of work actually well.
I have used the iii together earlier, and my fish were without Ich in two days (I continued using it for the unabridged treatment), I never lost my cycle, lost no fish, and my Skunk Loach wasn't afflicted in any negative ways.
The 3 are made to be used together for the whole purpose of removing the Ich, keeping the cycle, and non harming any fish.
How about that! I always idea it was fungal for some reason. You acquire something new every solar day
Rikard
- Thread Starter
- #28
Oh, do you know if they comport those products at petco?
cognizant
- #29
Just think to cut the carbon out of the cartridge, just leave the cartridge in the filter.
Rikard
- Thread Starter
- #30
On a side not, passed l posts finally! Now I tin can get back & add to everyones reputation that's been especially helpfull. Sorry if I miss someone.
cognizant
- #31
Rikard
- Thread Starter
- #32
Rikard
- Thread Starter
- #33
Oh, would it brand any differance that I did a 25% water alter yesterday & used my normal water conditioner? The carbons been in the filter up until this point if that makes a differance.
cognizant
- #34
Special Blend and Nighttime Out II are the ones I used. I'm not sure if that third 1 is the aforementioned. Hither is a link to the movie of the 1 I used. That other i y'all bought may work, merely I am non sure.
Rikard
- Thread Starter
- #35
cognizant
- #36
Rikard
- Thread Starter
- #37
Similar Aquarium Threads
report this advertisement - Aquarium Forum
- Freshwater Aquarium Fish Forum
- Freshwater Tank Equipment
- Aquarium Filter
Should I Leave Carbon Filter On 24 Hours,
Source: https://www.fishlore.com/aquariumfishforum/threads/how-long-is-it-safe-to-go-w-out-a-carbon-insert-in-the-tank-filter.125396/
Posted by: smithafteld43.blogspot.com

0 Response to "Should I Leave Carbon Filter On 24 Hours"
Post a Comment